Savoury food of the Greek gods or pungent pariah of the picnic? Do you use salted or savoury roe, what do you serve it with – and will anyone admit to a passion for the bright pink, ready-made variety?It is customary to begin a piece on taramasalata by lamenting “the enormous damage” done to its reputation by “the sweet, artificially coloured gloop sold under that name in supermarkets”, as the River Cottage Fish Book has it. But I just can’t bring myself to lie. Apart from a very brief break at about the age of seven, when I discovered what went into the “lurid pink paste sold in plastic tubs”, as Belinda Harley puts it in her book Roast Lamb in the Olive Groves, I’ve been a lifelong devotee of the pungently savoury, vaguely fishy pink stuff. Fancy deli or corner shop, served with toasted pitta or Pringles, I love it all.But there is room in my heart for the more authentic kind too, the sort you might actually eat in Greece – which is harder to come by in this country. Unless you make your own, of course. Related: How to make perfect hummus Continue reading...
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