This year’s Sicilian holiday looks doubtful, but that’s no reason not to enjoy the nostalgic pleasures of caponata-style, sweet-and-sour aubergine “Lick your arm, then bite.” I remember being taught this by a Greek friend when I was about 10: to lick a salt-streaked forearm, then to take a bite of watermelon, enjoying how salty and sweet got on, before flinging ourselves in the sea, using the melon skin as a sort of float. Years later, I watched my tiny son alternate between his arm and an ice-cream lolly with a chocolate veneer (called a _cremino_), untroubled by any sand that got between them. Then, last week, while I moaned about spending more time in too small a space, that we wouldn’t get to Sicily or to Dorset this summer, my son was busy swirling salt into his bath, tightening his snorkelling mask and checking the freezer for cremino. Continue reading...
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