Snails, chandeliers, and suited waiters… this isn’t just a French restaurant, it’s a Soho institution L’ESCARGOT, 48 GREEK STREET, LONDON W1D 4EF (020 7439 7474). MEAL FOR TWO, INCLUDING DRINKS AND SERVICE, £100 TO £140 L’Escargot is your stylish auntie, the one who knows how to grow old gracefully; who had that green velvet halterneck from Biba back in the day but knew when to stop wearing it. Has she surrendered to the passage of time? Hell no. She just knows exactly which version of herself to be. L’Escargot, now in its 91st year, is the same. It has been many things over the years. It has been bang on trend and it has been a survivor and now, through an acute understanding of the essentials, it is the best kind of institution. I can think of nowhere better by which to celebrate the launch of our new magazine. If you’re reading online, go pick up a print edition. It’s beautiful. Think fine old wine in new bottles. Which L’Escargot also knows a bit about, as it happens. Oh, and it does snails, obviously. I bloody love a snail. Continue reading...
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