When things to return to normal, which they will in time, please remember these words On the face of it, writing a restaurant review right now seems utterly ludicrous. Trying to recall whether the texture of the salt cod croquettes at Ampéli, a Greek-inspired, modern Mediterranean new opening in Fitzrovia, was to madam’s liking? Or if the standard of its Cretan oil pleased my gilded oesophagus? Yes, I know how that sounds. As I decipher my tipsy notes on Ampéli’s Josper-smoked aubergine, written three weeks ago, it now feels as if back then was a very different landscape, and a very different time of eating. Ampéli happened before the news turned to the virus and almost nothing but the virus, and the restaurant world donned its crash helmet for freefall. I ate here in a time before the big farfalle purge of 2020, when the British, or at least the more able ones, ransacked shelves of De Cecco bow-ties and tinned mackerel, planning, it seemed, to sit out bad times eating rudimentary pasta bakes. Continue reading...
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