The Iberico char siu is bordering on the sublime at this new Cantonese in Soho WUN’S TEA ROOM AND BAR 23 GREEK STREET, LONDON W1D 4DZ (020 8017 9888). SNACKS AND SMALL PLATES £2.80-£9.80, LARGER DISHES £11.80-£18.80, DESSERTS £4.80-£5.80, WINES FROM £22.80 It is tempting to shove just five words at you and leave it at that: sugar skin Iberico char siu. Mouth them, like some florid incantation: Sugar. Skin. Iberico. Char. Siu. It is not just char siu, that boisterous Cantonese way with roasted pork, involving the aromatics of five spice punched up with fermented bean curd and honey. It is char siu fashioned from Iberico pork, prized for its thick gilding of glistening, ivory fat. No, it’s more than that. It is Iberico char siu with a crisp, sugared skin. Some of you, the pork-eating ones obviously, may feel you need this in your life. I need this in my life. Continue reading...
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