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Thursday, March 28, 2013

In praise of … halloumi

Cypriot halloumi could be the latest casualty of the crisis, admittedly not the most serious one

Cypressa, an importer of halloumi cheese, can not pay suppliers because of the bank closures in Cyprus. The thought that Cypriot halloumi could be the latest casualty of the crisis, admittedly not the most serious one, is sad. It is not as if its production was untroubled before the bank bubble burst. Manufacturers of the cheese had to withdraw attempts to register it as a protected designation of origin in April last year after disagreements over the ratio of cow, sheep and goat's milk used. There are objections from Turkish Cypriot producers of hellim. The cheese itself little deserves its current marketing difficulties in Europe. With a higher than normal melting point, it is generally dismissed as a culinary cheese and is usually to be found grilled on the barbecue, consumed with lunza (smoked pork loin) and Greek bread. But wrapped in mint leaves and aged, it becomes both drier, saltier and stronger. Either way it is a great cheese.


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